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Ender 5 Falling Bed Solution

Ender 5 Falling Bed Fx. Swap out your stock lead screw for this T8x2 Lead Screw and Anti-backlash nut.

Does your Ender 5 print bed fall after the Nema 17 stepper motors are shut down? The reason this happens is that Creality 3D uses a T8x8 Lead Screw on the Ender 5. T8 means 8mm round. The second 8 stands for the lead or how far the nut will travel in one full turn of the screw, which in this case is 8mm. When the Nema 17 stepper motors shut down, there is nothing holding the screw fixed in place, so the weight of the bed and the standard brass nut causes the screw to turn and the bed will fall either 8mm, the distance it traveled in the last screw rotation or all the way back to the bottom if the nut is too loose.

The solution: Swap out the T8x8 lead screw for a T8x2 lead screw. One full rotation of the screw and the nut only travels 2mm. So not as far to drop and the weight can’t build up that much spin in the screw. The anti-backlash nut is also stronger at holding the bed’s position on the screw when the motors are off. Transfering the weight into the spring and not into spinning the lead screw.

This swap also gives you an added benefit, more microsteps! Which lead to better and more accurate prints. The stock T8x8 lead screw travels the nut, as stated, 8mm with one turn of the screw. That is a large distance when you are talking about thin layers of plastic. Replacing it with a lead screw that only travels 2mm per rotation and you can see how much more accurate your prints will be. Your micro steps go from only 400 with the stock lead screw to 1600 with the replacement T8x2!

We available what you need the T8x2 Lead Screw and brass anti-backlash nut in our product listings here!

Want to decrease noise from your printer? Consider upgrading to the Delrin (Pom) Anit-Backlash nut! The self lubricating nut made from Delrin plastic, also known as POM travels silently up and down your lead screw.

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Best V6 Silicone Socks For Insulation We’ve Found

e3d as any 3D printer maven knows, makes fantastic and creative products at the cutting edge of our technology. However frankly their standard design for the Silicone Socks for insulation on the V6 Hotends suck. They don’t fit well, tend to come partially free on a regular basis and at their worse will fall off and potentially ruin a print if you aren’t watching.

Which is why we are excited to offer this new design of insulating silicone sock we found. Fully tested on one of our CR-10 printers, it fits tight, stays tight and doesn’t fall off. Just wish we could find ones similar in usability for the V6 High Temperature or PT100 heater blocks.

V6 Hotend Silicone Socks for Insulation. Compatible with e3d and Chinese clones.

Silicone sock features:

  • Compatible with E3D V6 hotends using the traditional glass bead thermistor and Chinese V6 clones.
  • Durable and capable of working long time without replacement, will not get loose or come off.
  • Helps to stabilize printing temperature and reduces heat radiation.
  • Faster heat-up.
  • Cleaner heater block.
  • Safe to touch when heated up, will not burn your fingers.

    Ready to purchase, the V6 socks compatible with e3d Hotends available in the store.
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The Words On My Print Didn’t Print.

We have been hit a few times from purchasers about why something on the thing they are trying wasn’t printed when the 3D Printer got done. Many times it is words they have raised up on the surface.

If there isn’t an error in the 3D model like a gap in the skin. Then the most likely reason is you nozzle size. If what you are trying to do is print raised up lettering from the surface of your thing, and you are using a standard font then that is your problem. Fonts are problematic for 3D printers. The average font is usually only 2 to 3 pixels wide, it looks like a lot on your monitor but for the standard .4mm 3D printer nozzle, it is way too small. Every surface of what you want to print, must be at least as wide as the nozzle you are using if not wider. If it is not as wide as your nozzle the Slicer will delete it from the gcode and most likely leave holes and other mistakes in the area where the lettering was suppose to be.

So what can you do? Be mindful of the font that you use. Hand writing fonts, you can pretty much forget. Standard fonts like Times New Roman or Arial, will work if you bolden them. Recommended use bold fonts. Nearly very computer comes with Impact.ttf installed. Unless really tiny Impact will give you no problem. Another one I like is Armada Bold. If you really want a narrow line font, then make sure that you make the surface area covered fairly large. Also use a 2mm nozzle or even smaller like one of the experimental ones 1.5.

Anyways good luck and happy printing!